Well, it is almost totally enclosed and modestly remote but hardly enough to justify the hyperbole of the Sailing Directions with the inevitable result — too many other boats, always too many other boats except at the very beginning and end of the sailing season. And it will get worse after being voted the most popular West Coast anchorage in 2011. Actually you can still strike lucky in the early spring when the banks around the anchorage are awash with early flowers, and herons stalk whatever herons stalk (we were the only boat on March 30th 2016 — sunny, a bit chilly). It is certainly a pretty place and you can potter on the small islands while the children row around safely in the inflatable.
In fact it is not as remote as it looks and feels because it is only a ten-minute walk along a signed track to Clachan Seil, a small community with two things to do: gawp with the trippers at the so-called Bridge over the Atlantic (in truth over Clachan Sound) and then repair to the 18th century Tigh an Truish pub (ph 01852 300242). After being in the same family for 35 years, the pub was sold in 2014. It is cosy, but I'm a bit uncertain about the food these days, at least out of season when I was last there (this may very well be an out of date view). And food is not available every night of the week even in season, so check. There is a wonderful old wooden bench around the bar, perfect for sitting and leaning on the bar and drinking their real ales. To a newcomer to this anchorage this pub explains why there is a mysterious and steady stream of boaties leaving their inflatables on the shore and then heading over the hill. But beware the muddy path, best not to wear trainers.
Tigh an Truish is Gaelic for 'house of the trousers'. Kilts were banned after the disastrous 1745 Jacobite rebellion, so the islanders heading for the mainland are supposed to have stopped off here to change from their kilts into trousers. Sounds plausible to me.
The bridge, built in 1792-3 with uncertain influences from Thomas Telford, is a very beautiful Grade-A hump-backed stone structure which is well worth a look, and a photograph. In 2026 there was a real stushie (good Scots word that) over the council wanting to put traffic lights at either end at £35 000 — 'road safety' of course.
