⚓ Scottish AnchoragesCharles Warlow

Ecclesiastical

Oban Roman Catholic Cathedral, the same architect as Battersea Power Station, hence the similarity — Sir Giles Gilbert Scott
Oban Roman Catholic Cathedral, the same architect as Battersea Power Station, hence the similarity — Sir Giles Gilbert Scott


"The whole of Cantyre, indeed the whole of Argyllshire, and all of the Western Isles are monuments of early Christianity. The very names tell you that. You can count the names which begin with 'Kil' by the score, and 'Kil' means 'cell', a place where early missionary priests established themselves...."  Isle, Ben and Loch, from the Clyde to Skye. S Heckstall Smith, Edward Arnold, London, 1932.

Spoiled for choice I would say — from a famous abbey to a pile of medieval stones via classic 19th Century Church of Scotland small churches and a couple of Roman Catholic chapels (Drimnin, and on Canna). So where to begin? I guess with the medieval chapels, some with graveyards, separate burial grounds (or cemeteries), and ancient crosses — there are loads in various states of ruination at the following anchorages:

Ardminish Bay, Gigha: St Cathan's chapel and graveyard

Bàgh Dun Mhuilig, Loch Craignish: ruined chapel and graveyard

Balnahard Bay, Colonsay: a very ruined chapel and eroded cross

Balvicar, Loch Shuna: Kilbrandon Old Parish Church and graveyard

Calgary Bay, West Mull: Cladh Mhuire, burial ground

Canna, North of Ardnamurchan: graveyard and cross, Lorne Campbell gravestone

Carsaig Bay, Kintyre: burial ground

Chapel Bay, Loch Caolisport: very overgrown St Columba's chapel and burial ground

Craighouse, Jura: Cill Earnadil graveyard

Dunstaffnage: Lower Loch Linnhe: rather grand ruined chapel, more of a small church really

Eilean Mòr, Kintyre: monkish cave and St Cormac's chapel

Eilean Munde, Loch Leven: the very best of burial grounds, and a chapel

Ellary, Loch Caolisport: burial ground

Inch Kenneth, West Mull: chapel and burial ground

Kilchoan, Loch Sunart: chapel and graveyard

Kilnaughton Bay, Islay: chapel and rather interesting graveyards

Loch a'Choire, Lower Loch Linnhe: graveyard

Loch Aline, Sound of Mull: graveyard, grave slabs in the church

Loch Beag, Firth of Lorne: old parish church of Kilmarie and graveyard

Loch Buie, South Mull: St Kenneth’s Chapel and graveyard

Loch na Cille, Kintyre: graveslabs, chapel

Loch Spelve, South and East Mull: parish church of Killean

Loch Stornoway, Kintyre: burial ground

Nave Island, Islay: chapel

Port Mòr, Aros Bay, Islay: Kildalton old parish church, and cross

Toberonochy, Loch Shuna: chapel with graffiti, and graveyard


There is then a gap of several centuries, spanning the destruction during the Reformation, before the sort of churches we are familiar with started to be built in the late 18th/19th century. Many are very serene and rather nice to visit even if you are of no particular religious persuasion, but need a bit of a sit down and a think. Sadly many are now closed or for sale.

Ardchattan Church, Loch Etive: now closed

Ardfern, Loch Craignish: Craignish Parish Church, now closed

Camus Aiseig, Upper Loch Linnhe: Ardgour Parish Church

Arinagour, Coll: Parish Church

Bowmore, Islay: Kilarrow Parish Church, the round one, for sale

Canna: North of Ardnamurchan: round tower church and the Roman Catholic Chapel

Craignure, Sound of Mull: Parish Church

Drimnin, Sound of Mull: St Columba's chapel

Kilchoan, Loch Sunart: old and new Parish Churches, graveyard

Loch a'Choire, Lower loch Linnhe: Kingairloch Church

Loch Cuan, West Mull: Kilmore (Dervaig) Parish Church, another round tower

Portnahaven, Islay: Parish Church, for sale

Ulva Ferry, West Mull: Telford church


And some grander stuff:

Ardchattan, Loch Etive: ruined Priory

Iona, West Mull: Abbey and Nunnery — a magnet for tourists, but remarkable

Oban, Firth of Lorne: St Columba's Cathedral (20th century)

Port na Moralachd or Achnacroish, Lismore: Clachan Kirk, surprisingly a previous cathedral

Oronsay, Colonsay: extensive and well preserved ruin of a priory


And finally, there is a great monastic site with monkish beehives, more or less unique to the area, on the Garvellach Islands, Firth of Lorne.



A serious, but decaying pulpit in Ulva church
A serious, but decaying pulpit in Ulva church