After a slightly tense entrance (at least in the days before chartplotters), this is a delightful spot, at least in quiet weather from the south, and when there is not too much swell. The small harbour at Croig (of crab and lobster fame) with an old jetty has less space than outside Goat Island (with the obelisk), but also less swell and it is a shorter row to the shore. There are a lot of seals on the skerries, and there is a small beach facing northwest where there is excellent snorkelling for crabs and other assorted sea-life. There is also a larger beach just round the corner, facing southeast, but it is not so charming. In both cases there is not much sand left at high water springs.
It is a bit of a row, but the Quinish Estate over on the east shore has some splendid walks and views — and a standing stone. From the anchorage, you can see the big house, circa 1810, peeping out through the trees.
It is also a bit of a walk, maybe a mile, from Croig to Am Birlinn at Penmore Mill, a highly regarded — and ecologically respectable — fish restaurant (ph 01688 400619). They might give you a lift if you call them. I have not been there but they win prizes.
You can also take the tender up to the village of Dervaig but I am not sure it is really worth the effort although a very small and intimate restaurant I have not been to is getting very good reviews — Ar Bòrd (ph 01688 400647) remember to bring your own bottle, and book weeks ahead. You certainly need an outboard rather than oars. It is quite a pretty place, being a 'planned' village, the old part of which was built in the early 1800s. The Bellachroy Hotel is apparently the oldest inn on the island, dating from 1608 it is said. It has a bar with food, a gastropub indeed (ph 01688 400314). New owners took over in 2025 and are planning to upgrade the whole place, as new owners do. There is quite a nice church with a conically- capped round tower just like the church on Canna. No surprise once you know the same architect was responsible for both — Peter MacGregor Chalmers. It was built in 1904 and after a fairly recent restoration is looking very good, inside and out, and the stained glass is notable. But I am not sure about the tower which is too in-your-face-white for my taste. Of course the round tower brings to mind the Irish Romanesque towers, as it is meant to, but it seems a bit out of place in Scotland.
