It is hard indeed to love Fort William, the self-styled Outdoor Capital of the UK. Nothing new about that, Frank Cowper described it 120 years ago as "not a lively place" and "Its chief raison d'être now appears to be to act as a kind of Scotch Chamonix to the Mont Blanc of the British Isles" (Sailing Tours: The Yachtsman's Guide to the Cruising Waters of the English and Adjacent Coasts, Part V, The West Coasts of Scotland, the Orkneys, and the west coast of the North Sea. Frank Cowper, Upcott Gill, London, 1896). Unlike Oban which embraces the sea, Fort William not only turns its back on the sea but then builds a 40mph dual carriageway and some very unpleasant housing to cut itself off from the sea completely. The 'Outdoor' clearly does not include the sea. The anchorage is not at all pleasant, and is exposed. However, in 2016 a small transit pontoon appeared, but mostly for cruise ship shore boats, and visiting yachts if they are not too big because the space is quite cramped. The local yacht club is friendly and has a couple of visitor moorings available for a charge. If you are there on a Monday evening you could even join in with some racing round the buoys.
If you do get stuck in Fort William, there are certainly some things worth doing. The main street is pleasantly traffic free which is where you will find the West Highland Museum (ph 01397 702169) founded in 1922, in a building which was originally a bank, built in 1840. It is free so put a donation in the box. The layout seems rather eccentric, and it majors on the Jacobites as well as training commandos in the 2nd World War (displaying some very fierce-looking knives designed to kill). I had not seen a birching table before — ideal for tying down a recalcitrant child and giving them a good thrashing (not allowed these days of course). Take a look at the 'St Kilda mailboat', a wind and tide-propelled box to carry messages to the mainland. Personally, I am not all that impressed with the virtual reality version of the long gone 17th century fort. The few remains of the fort itself are at the north end of that horrible dual carriageway, well positioned overlooking the loch, but as a pedestrian not so easy to get there to read the information boards because you have to dodge the cars and trucks roaring along at 40mph.
Naturally there are plenty of shops as well as a very good Morrisons supermarket, not as classy as Waitrose, but very adequate nonetheless, with a Lidle next door. And in 2017, a reversal of a UK-wide trend — a bookshop opened rather than closed, The Highland Bookshop. And it is really nice. Airy, spacious, friendly, well-organised, great selection of outdoor and Scottish books, and some second hand. For coffee and buns go to the Wildcat across the road. I didn't realise the cappuccino was vegan until after I had enjoyed it.
For seafood go to the Crannog Seafood Restaurant which is now (temporarily?) in Cameron Square. It opened in 1989 to provide fresh local seafood direct from those who caught or farmed it (ph 01397 701873). The Lime Tree (ph 01397 701806) has I am told a nice restaurant which features in a lot of guides, and there are beds too (I think the art gallery may have gone). The widest range of beer can be found at the Black Isle Brewery. The Highland Cinema with nearly 200 seats in Cameron Square seems to be going strong, showing a range of films and it has special events through the year. There is an attached bar and restaurant.
I have not been to the 13th century Old Inverlochy castle. It is about a mile out of town towards Inverness (follow the Great Glen Way), just where the railway to Mallaig crosses the River Lochy. 'Pevsner' describes it as 'unloved' (Highlands and Islands by John Gifford, Yale University press, 2003). Maybe more loved nowadays.
The Lochaber Leisure Centre has a 25-metre swimming pool (ph 01397 704359). And as from 2016 you can try a bit of indoor climbing at the Three Wise Monkeys, Fassifern Rd parallel to the High Street.
Maybe the best 'trip' is to take the Jacobite steam train which in the summer runs up and down the fabulous 84-mile single track railway line to Mallaig, over the Glenfinnan viaduct made famous in the Harry Potter films. The track was opened in 1901 and thankfully, unlike the Ballachulish line, it remains not just open but actually used. Well maybe not by the steam train in 2024 if health and safety regulations put a stop to it. Something to do with 'unsafe' carriage door opening because there is no central locking. Somehow it is setting off again in 2025.
Given the proximity of the railway and bus stations, you can change crew here quite easily, but then it is not a place to linger in. Better to base yourself in Camas nan Gall and take the ferry.
Finally, there is a webcam to tell you if it is raining (which it often is).
