Pretty, like Tobermory, this is not. Mallaig was founded by Lord Lovat, the local landowner, as a fishing community in the mid-19th century. It is a much rougher and tougher sort of a place than Tobermory, a working place, literally at the end of the railway line which arrived in 1901, a once thriving fishing port as recently as the 1960s but then sadly in decline, and unfriendly to yachts. But from 2012 with the arrival of pontoons things have definitely looked up for boaties. There is even a harbour seal to amuse. And from 2016 a spanking new shower and toilet block, all pretty good news as long as there is not a good going gale from the north.
Some years ago, Armadale on Skye was the best place around here for changing crew who could come by train to Mallaig and then jump on the ferry to Skye. However, I am biased because I used to charter from there in the 1970s/80s, in the days of Charlie Barrington and his Rival 34s. His successor, the very well thought of Isle of Skye Yachts, closed in 2021, and has not been replaced. So now, with the pontoons near the railway station, Mallaig is the best place to change crew who can arrive off the train (Sleeper from London to Fort William, then change for the lovely Mallaig line which is thankfully still open).
Mallaig is also good for restocking with a large Co-op, fresh fish at Andy Race fish merchants by the garage, a brilliant bakery on the harbour, an outdoor sort of a shop, and a chandlery at Johnston Brothers. But sadly no butcher, and the bookshop has gone. However, I am told there is a community-run second-hand bookshop with an excellent selection in the Fishermen's Mission, and a café. Check it out. And of course there are several places to eat and drink, which I have not properly explored. Finally, there is the community-run leisure centre with a swimming pool.
