The Eilean Chathastail/Galmisdale Bay anchorage has always struck me as rather unsatisfactory because it is shallow north of the pier and can have too much swell south of the pier. This is a pity because Eigg is an extremely interesting island to visit, for the walk up the Sgurr among other good things. The island was once notorious for its awful lairds, greedy or bonkers or both, and here we are talking 20th century not the very old days. However, there was a celebrated community buyout by the Isle of Eigg Heritage Trust in 1997 — for £1.5 million — and the island is now a much more harmonious place, as you can see from its very good website with all sorts of interesting videos. Indeed, the population increased from about 60 before the buyout to about 100 now. According to one Guardian commentator in 2017 "Eigg's success has come from genuine fusion of Hebridean culture and mainland counterculture". Well, maybe (you can see why the Guardian features so often in 'Pseuds Corner' in Private Eye). Since 2008 the island has even had an independent and community-owned electrical grid fed by its own renewable energy sources (wind, water and sunshine) with battery storage and a back up diesel generator — for £1.5 million, most impressive when the islanders mostly only had dirty diesel generators before then. And on Eigg you will find the doctor for the Small Isles, if you should need one.
The Galmisdale Bay Café and Bar is on the old jetty, and is open even on some (or maybe most) evenings for straightforward home-cooked meals (but check opening times on their website or phone 01687 482487). There is also a toilet block, laundry, general store, craft shop, bike and kayak hire, guided walks, paddleboard tours, snorkelling tours, and camping pods have sprouted.
The Poll nam Partan anchorage is certainly sheltered but seems to me rather too shallow, certainly at springs, but with the Antares chart a good spot can be found. There is a bit of a volcanic sandy beach for the bucket and spade members of the crew, but the beach behind the new pier is better in this regard if a little overshadowed by the pier itself — an overlarge roll-on roll-off confection. Walking up from Poll nam Partan you will find the 1790 Old Manse which I with family and friends rented for a holiday in 1981. Sadly it was then left to rot for many years until in 2014 a new owner started to restore it — hurrah! And it looks good judging from his blog. By 2023 the job was done. A bit further on across a small valley you will find the remains of Old St Donnan's Church, 16th century. St Columba's, the former parish church, was acquired by the community in 2026 and is being converted into an arts centre — Solas Eige Centre. It is up the road a bit from the old manse.
The Singing Sands are on Camas Sgiotaig, the bay just north of Laig Bay, which can be anchored off. But they didn't sing or even squeak for me when I walked on them. Maybe I walked in the wrong way in the wrong place at the wrong time in the wrong shoes. However, the beach is great and the cliffs behind impressive with their amazing shapes best seen in a low evening light, and the view of Rum is even more impressive. And, up the hill a bit, even more impressive again I understand is Lageorna, a B&B with a restaurant which welcomes non-residents (ph 01687 460081).
