At first sight there may not seem a lot to choose between these two anchorages, but they are very different. Either you can go for convenience and tie up to the pier and roll around with everyone else in the swell that sets into the bay at Scalasaig (and pay for the privilege) or, just around the corner, there is an easy anchorage in Loch Staosnaig (or Queen's Bay) from where it is a 20-minute walk to the hotel (head up the hill on a narrow path to the right of the signs for the electricity cable). This latter anchorage has a delightful sandy bay with a beach that dries out a long way at low tide, ideal for children to mess around on. Above half tide it's good for swimming and snorkelling around the tidal islet. If you don't fancy the water then you can just look at the view of the Paps of Jura. But, dear oh dear, in 2023 six moorings appeared for the faint hearted who won't/can't anchor. Time to move somewhere else! Or, as they are quite a long way out, anchor inside them.
Two hundred yards from the Scalasaig ferry pier (original bit 1850 with roll-on roll-off extension in 1988) is a convenient and quite well-stocked shop, but being an island you cannot always get bread or fresh milk — but nor do you have to tolerate the horribleness of a large over-heated supermarket. Also a bit further along the road to the north you will find Seapink, a gallery with attractive craft items .
Right by the pier, the Pantry (ph 01951 200325) is a great place for home-baked cakes, real coffee and I believe fresh bread if you order it. It does lunches too, and dinners but not every evening. In 2021 it doubled its indoor space with a modernistic prefabricated box that arrived on the island in two pieces. Unfortunately this has substituted the view of the pier from the garden, with the view of the pier from the dining tables.
Up the road from the pier is the 18th century Colonsay Hotel (original building circa 1750). To make my hackles rise, it was rebadged as 'The Colonsay', and in some quarters is regarded as a 'boutique' hotel — it is a bit unclear exactly what clientele it is aiming at. However, honour redeemed, it is friendly to children and sailors, it has a bar, and a nice enough restaurant with gastro-pub food (ph 01951 200316). In 2021 it was up for sale, offers over £650 000. There were plans for a community buy-out, and I think the hotel has now been sold and is open for business.
Beer was once brewed on the island (from 2007), you could get it on draft in the hotel. It was said to be the most remote brewery in the UK and I can well believe it. But no longer — the beer is now brewed in Alloa (the original brewery is into the modern fashion of distilling gin).
The parish church, earlier than many still standing at 1801-4, is nicely perched on a mound opposite the hotel, but close-up it is not all that interesting, either inside or out. Except the pewter baptismal font hinged on a rail is worth a look. Although originally designed for 400 'sitters', the regular congregation is now down to a dozen or less, so there are real problems with the upkeep. For example, in 2015 they were trying to raise £60 000 to stabilise the belfry, maybe grants and crowd funding were to do the trick. In 2024 it was under threat of permanent closure. I am in no way religious but it is very, very sad to see these historic, peaceful and reassuring buildings going downhill. Apart from castles and cathedrals (and drystone walls), they are more or less the only physical remains of our history.
Finally, miracle of miracles, there is a bookshop next to the gin distillery, still in action I hope although the opening hours are limited, best to phone ahead: 01951 200320. They have a collection of new and second-hand books, majoring on Argyll, but also covering the rest of the Hebrides and Scotland, with some children's books thrown in. In the same building there is even a local publishing company, the House of Lochar. Long may it live, although I believe it is not taking on any more new titles. And there is a book festival in the spring.
I imagine the two-and-half mile walk to Colonsay House (which is private) would be good, but I haven't done it. Its gardens sound fine, and there is a café, but not open every day, so check (ph 01951 200211).
